In 2019 yesterday, Estee Lauder released an anti-aging skincare product called Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair (ANR) Intense Concentrate in Milan, Italy. The following is an excerpt from the interview with Dr. Nadine Pernodet, Ph. D., Vice President of Skin Biology and BioActives from Estee Lauder with Femaledaily.
Since 2012, research on autophagy has been carried out by Estee Lauder. Can the doctor explain this research?
Autophagy is a natural mechanism found in every cell of our body. In the area of the skin, this autophagy serves to help eliminate the damage that occurs in protein and amino acids, then digest it again to produce new healthy proteins, and finally, the skin can produce collagen again properly. In essence, autophagy is the most efficient recycling system in the body to deal with damage to the skin. Factors that can affect the performance of autophagy are age. Because with increasing age, our ability to autophagy will decrease, so it cannot help repair skin damage properly.
What is the latest breakthrough that the doctor co-created with Estee Lauder this time?
Estee Lauder is the brand that first discussed the matter of circadian rhythm and skin repair at night. We have considered this for years, and it is proven by the presence of ANR. Now, after many people have become familiar with the importance of observing the body’s natural rhythm in the morning and evening, on this occasion we would like to introduce Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intense Concentrate which is also used at night when the skin is in trouble, redness, dehydration, stress, or irritation.
When discussing the issue of circadian rhythm, where skin cells will have a protective function during the day and repair at night. What about when someone is traveling and experiencing the time difference from the country of residence?
Because there is Chronolux technology in every ANR product, it will help speed up the process of skin synchronization with circadian rhythm. Then, if there really is a time difference when arriving in another country, then the trick is to sleep in a dark room condition and in accordance with the time (sleep at night, and activities in the morning). The time difference will not affect our circadian rhythm, because it will adjust to the environment where we are.
With the presence of Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intense Reset Concentrate, what does it mean to replace the role of Estee Lauder ANR Synchronized Recovery Complex II?
Certainly not. The latest product from Estee Lauder is precisely designed to complement your skincare range at night. ANR is a serum that you use every day, while Intense Concentrate is a product that can be used when you need first aid to deal with inflammation of the skin before the condition becomes worse. So, Intense Concentrate is an emergency product that can be used when the skin is irritated.
Can it be used together with ANR serum as well?
It can be used together with ANR serum because all the benefits of anti-aging are in the serum and we cannot get it in concentrate. But, all the research we are doing at this time is the result of using Estee Lauder ANR Intense Concentrate only.
In addition, there is a new technology used in Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intense Concentrate named Chronolux S.O.S. Can you explain what is the difference with the patented ChronoluxCB technology?
Basically, all ANR products use ChronoluxCB technology to help synchronize the skin with circadian rhythm. This technology is used to help the skin’s natural ability to better repair skin cells and protect them from the adverse effects of the environment. Chronolux S.O.S technology is a technology update that has the addition of stabilized salicylic acid and resveratrol in it so that it can help overcome the inflammation that occurs in the skin.
Can you explain more about the content of stabilized Salicylic Acid and Reservaterol?
So, as we already know, Salicylic Acid has a function to help speed up the renewal of new cells or is used for skin exfoliation. We realize that slowing cell turnover will certainly complicate the process of changing skin cells, so this is the cause of inflammation of the skin. While reservaterol is an ingredient that can support the skin repair process, so this material will automatically help relieve inflammation that occurs on our skin. Now, if separated, these two ingredients are usually unstable. Therefore, we stabilize both by combining using chemical processes, so that they can help improve skin more optimally. Even after going through various tests, we found that combining these two into one molecule can help cope with the 3 inflammatory phases of the skin better than when reservaterol is used separately. So now with only one stable molecule contained in the Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intense Concentrate, we can help many people who want to speed up cell turnover, improve skin, and treat inflammation simultaneously.
In the Estee Lauder, Advanced Night Repair Intense Concentrate there is also Hyaluronic Acid with two different sizes. What are their respective functions?
Hyaluronic acid (HA) contained in this product is 15x better than that contained in previous ANR products. Macromolecular HA has a function to help quickly moisturize the skin, while hydrolyzed small molecule HA will penetrate deeper into the cellular level, so the skin can produce HA naturally and become moisturized for a longer period.
Estee Lauder has 3 ANR products for facial skin, serum, ampoules and now concentrate. How do you use all three if you want maximum results?
The serum can be used every day in the morning and evening after that just use an ampoule or concentrate. Ampoules can indeed help overcome the problems of sensitive skin, but do not have a formula as strong as concentrate when we talk about overcoming skin inflammation. So, this concentrate is the next generation product that can be used to help us overcome inflammation in a faster time.